It is kind of eerie and weird watching videos and pics at social media of flood and destruction being shown at social media. I together with 2 others biked to this place for a TV program three years ago next month . And they were all so nice nod fantastic
Now the beauty is gone. All destruction and even death.
How this post wished that concrete measures will be done to mitigate the floods. And that allegations of graft are untrue
During your off days, ie when you cant ride, you can try this in your house. This helps you strengthen your heart and helps you maintain your fitness level. You dont have to wilt when sprinting or when doing your climbs.
In the interest of safety, age, and convenience, this post has gradually shifted his attention from RB to MTB. There are more interesting technology in MTB.
The MTB is generally seen as no place for weight reduction. But champion MTB riders have carbon and generally ligher bikes. As in RB, and motorracing, light is always might.
There are generally 3 high priority areas that are subject to weight reduction
1. Fork
2. Wheelset and tires
3. Drive train.
FORK - you can shift to rigid forks which tip the scales at 700 gm max for alum and 500 g for carbon fiber. That would save you about 2.5 kg from 3 kg fork. Or you can halve the weight to 1.7 kg by shifting to much lighter albeit more expensive fork
WHEELSET and tires. Maybe you can lose 500 gm on lighter tires, and kg on carbon fiber wheelset. But that is expensive.
DRIVE TRAIN
1. Converting to one by - saves you about 300 - 600 grams
2. Hollow chains - about 20 to 30 grams.
If you follow all the three weight reduction can be 2.5 kg from fork, 2. tires 500 gm and 3. one by 0.5 kg. Thats a total of 3.5 kg. If you have a 15 kg bike, you will end up with 11.5 kg bike. That'light. If you have a 11.7 kg carbon fiber bike (as what I have ordered) the final weight will be less than 10 kg. or 8.2 kg. x 2.2 18.04 lbs. Just almost the weight of an rb.
The mechanical disc brake of a kapadyak failed yesterday and I was unable to repair this real quick. I suspect: 1. thin brake pad; 2. loose adjustment of the fixed side; 3. failed piston
Hence I need to study this overhaul, so that may be able to find the defect and fix it.
Just because my bike has hydraulic brake it does not mean I would not know anything about the mechanical disc brake.
Copy right infringement by the Bike company
on the Boobies feet color?
Nanggaya tayo sa birds, nahawa?
I nearly fell of the bed laughing as I watched the survival segment Animal Planet on TV. It featured the mating characteristics of various animals, so that they will survive and perpetuate their species. The mayfly which has only 24 hours to lay eggs, some species of deer which breed only once a year and more - crabs which attract female by waving their pincers...
One those featured were the boobies of Galopagos. Believe it or not their feet are celeste green in color and their courtship consist of the male raising its celeste green feet to the lady, and then laying down sticks and looking at the sky. The color of the feet is sexual attraction tool... And the lady boobies fall for it... I could not believe that such birds were the predate certain bike colors. They were probably here million of years ago, well ahead of homo sapiens
Question:
1. Is buying that color a courtship pattern we inherited from the birds?
2. Will ladies fall for that color? Hehe and say Yes.
We have often heard of slamming a bike. This applies mostly to road bike. What is slamming?
It involves tilting the seat by say 5 to 7 degrees, raising the height and lowering the bar and the stem by 5 to 10 cm by: cutting the fork further, removing the spacer and using stems that lower the level of the bar further.
Slamming the bike can result in 5 to 30 watts of required efforts. However, the benefits can be seen only at speeds from 30 to 40 kph. There is no benefit for slower speed.
The benefits were seen at wind tunnel (and verified in races) Thus in many races and tours, you see a lot of slammed bikes
Using flower or star fangled nut in the steerer fork made of carbon is not an option. You have to use an aluminium compression bung costing about P500.00++ to do the job. Here is how to install or remove it:
Merry Christmas greetings to one and all especially to my Kapadyaks Recyclists
Ever since it was announced that we will ride to Vigan it got me hooked to train. So this week, I rode 160 km; today it was 80 up to Quisao, Pililla, despite the rains.
Baha sa ilang portion ng Halayhayin
Parking at KM post 67: my bike and kapote
The bike, the rice paddies and Laguna Lake
Garden full of ferns and softdrink PET cut bottles
Nice Zen house at Halayhayin, Pililla
Bakit matrapik sa Modong?
Ay lagpas ng munisipyo from palengke traffic jam
So my training schedule until the first week of February 2018 shall be
I did not bike today because I think I over reached yesterday. And the weather did not look ok - there was a slight shower. I decided I would clean all my MTBs. The Mosso pedalling was rougher and tougher than the others and inspection of the bottom brackets (the outboard type) look that they have plenty of grime.
So I took apart the Mosso crank first and found out that dirt and some fibers were jamming the shaft and bearing so it could not turn freely. I cleaned the plastic bearings, put some motor oil and then lined them with grease. I used 1,200 grit sand paper to clean the shaft and put some grease too. Then I brushed the chain rings with kerosene, washed with water and wiped with dry rags to remove the grime on the chain ring. Then I washed the tires with soap and water, trying hard to make the tires all black again (mud had stuck to the sides of the tire) wiped the rim too. Then cleaned the chain too, and afterwards put some oil on the chain. I repeated the process with SAVA carbon and SAVA titanium. I noticed that the fitment of SAVA carbon BB was ill made. (Well Chinese technology)
The bikes were dirty after all. The undersides which I did not see often needed detailed and thorough cleaning. Only the bike owner, not the boys in your house, not the maida, or your wife or children can do this cleaning for you. Only you
One of the observations among cyclists is that they have large abdomen. The riding wont remove the flabs or fats. But perhaps, these exercises will. They will be better looking too. And you will get stronger and faster too:
Watch the sprint of our champion kapadyak Iveler Nebres yesterday at the Fil Chi race at Roxas blvd. Gelo calls him an alamat. Di ka makapaniwala na ang mga nakakasama sa mga practice run at sa sa kainan ay ganitong kagaling kumarera. Mabuhay! and Congratulations
Happy birthday to my deceased brother. He perished about 3 years ago from colon cancer that metastasized to his lungs. He died of difficulty of breathing. Well he was an inveterate smoker. He smoked even after his colostomy.
Our topic for today is the removal of squeaks from the disc brakes used in MTB. I experienced it. One of the bike companions last Saturday had to bear with the unpleasant noise when he brakes:
It could come from:
1. dirt on the brake pads
2. oil and other contaminants on the rotor
3. uneven rotor surface.
1 and 2 could be remedied by:
1. Cleaning the disc/rotor with rag with alcohol, or with liquid detergent (Joy)
2. The pads could be cleaned by rubbing the discs coated with gel (Joy or Smart liquid detergent) Or rubbing the pads on sandpaper.
3. The rotor could be resurfaced by having sandpaper on a flat surface rubbed in the direction or rotation
These should remove the squeaks on the disc brakes. I am learning a lot of things: centering the disc brakes and cleaning the disc brakes, resurfacing the rotor
PS: I all ready did this on both of the brakes of my Mosso MTB. It is so easy to do. Saved P50.00 for the bike shop fees. I unscrewed the disc brakes, removed the pads, used detergent and sand paper to remove the disc grit and dirt. For the front brake, it took me less than 20 minutes to do.
